In Dagmar’s Autumn/Winter collection of 2009 the garments become more of coverings – like a kind of armour – to protect oneself against the world’s worrying and increasing crises, wars and catastrophes. Dressed uniforms in camouflage fabrics and colours, deceptive motives as well as shielding hoods and mantles characterise the collection. In an era when you no longer have time to reflect too much upon your clothing, the permeating ideas behind the collection are “back to basics” and “slow fashion”.
Contrasts
Wrapped and twisted fabrics as smooth covers are significant for Dagmar’s sensual shapes, as well as the strict, oversized tops and jackets. The garments become even more dressed, sculpted like uniforms – as a kind of additional body shield or like a second skin. Streamlined shapes from wrestling linen, tights and sports underwear are repeated elements that brings the mind to the strong physique of the athlete. Prominent details, such as detachable cuffs are further visible influences from the world of sports. However, it is the contrasts that are most noticeable; the combinations of the ultra elegant and the athletic or raw, such as the silk dress with black studs, the shoulder straps made of raw antique silver, the oversized jacket used as a dress. The silhouette is usually slim at the bottom and wide at the top.
Camouflage
The new patterns are strongly associated with camouflage – a way to take refuge from external threat. A prominent trompe l’oeil-print – with a motif that at a closer look is not what it first presents itself to be – becomes another way of hiding through deception. With the same aim, the borders between body and garment become blotched, as do the borders between material and pattern in cardigans with relief structure or burn-out velvet. The eye is used as a symbol for personality and soul.
The details of the garments are also vaguely deceptive. Chains, that symbolise protection and security, could either be shoulder straps or necklaces. Visible zips without openings. Some of the items provide a private hiding place – like the spacious, futuristic hood in the shape of a knitted cylinder or the cardigan, designed as a protective mantle. The colours in the collection make a contemporary camouflage palette. Colours of the skin, grey and black are dominating, but there are also some shades of blue, retrieved from nature, as well as the intense signaling yellow as that of the wasp.
Show